Positioned harmoniously between the silky sand of the Fijian foreshore and the glistening pool of the Sheraton Hotel, framed by gently swaying coconut plans which soothingly outline the sinking sun as it engoldens the lingering gossamer threads of glorious daytime clouds; this is the setting for Peter Kuruvita’s South Pacific extension of his highly successful Sydney based venture. What more needs to be said?
For habitués of his current or more recent forays, terrestrial or “tele-estial”, the menu is comfortably familiar, with strong echoes of Kuruvita’s peripatetic career and Sri Lankan heritage. For those less familiar there is, unsurprisingly, a heavy oceanic focus paired with a classic array of heady Asian flavours - chilli, ginger, lemon grass and coriander; while the locale is fittingly represented by locally caught fish served in simple, classic or Fijian style. Wagyu beef, nam jim dressings, Yarra Valley feta and pork belly provide a coherent nod to contemporary vogues nix the seasonality zeitgeist, though the sparsity of vegetarian options may disappoint.
The menu represents an enticing smorgasbord of flavours and textures; while broad in it’s reach; possibly to meet the divergent tastes of its symbiotic location; there is a restraint in the pairings that speak of culinary innovation at a refined level rather than a depressing polyglot globalisation. Be warned, prices fuelled by luscious surroundings and ingredient quality are at upper side Sydney level making this very pricey by Fijian standards; given the additional 20% tax which makes the 5 course degustation menu at $100 AUD particularly attractive.
The unctuous simplicity of poached prawn is carefully lifted by the deep hot, sour and tangy flavours of the nam jim while the accompanying perfume of watermelon, coriander and mint provide a cooling safety net to the vinaigrette’s chilli; overall a satisfyingly balanced dish that showcases the philosophy behind Flying Fish’s menu. The ruby grapefruit with the seared yellow fin tuna with sweet cracking pork gives a slightly heavy handed astringency to what would otherwise be a beautiful pairing of textures; the melt in the mouth briny thinness of the fish set against the delightful crunch and chew of slow roasted pork. The third more traditional dish of seared scallops with a roasted garlic puree is shiningly succulent with shaved prosciutto providing a robust finish to the sweet flesh, underlined by the subtle sharpness of pickled mushrooms. Next the Wagyu sirloin is delivered in a welcoming main street fashion replete with a sizzling chargrilled crust, salad and fries sprinkled in a moreish dusting of chilli salt. The finishing dish of Banana parfait, caramelised banana, chocolate mousse & salted peanut brittle while eye catchingly presented and silkingly crunchy is a little overtly sweet in its construction and could benefit from a paring back in a “more is less” approach.
Finally the service, while elevated, is still refreshing and disarming, an unpretentious touch of “Fiji time” still in evidence. Our seven thirty sitting a homely mix of special night out, couples and tail end family meals with the outdoor\indoor setting allowing a spaciousness that brought seclusion but one that is wrapped in a comforting low buzz of conversation and the scrape of emptying plates.
